DIY’s

Feeling handy, keen to get your hands dirty, or just looking to save a few dollars for the next mod by doing a bit of your own work?

This is a collection of DIY’s put together by some of our WRXSA club members, ranging from dead easy, to a little  more complicated.
Please do your own research and speak to your workshop if you are unsure about any of these instructions, we can’t take any responsibility for what you do with this information – It’s up to you to ensure the safety and legality of your work!

Here’s a quick DIY for painting your brake callipers without removing them from the car. You could get a much nicer job done if you remove the callipers all together and got them acid dipped, but for our purposes we left them on the car.

Tools
Trolley Jack
4 axle stands
Brake Cleaner
High Temperature Paint in a spray can.
Mini Paint Roller
Masking Tape
Newspaper

1. Make sure your car on a flat surface, apply the hand brake.

2. Loosen your wheel nuts half a turn or so – just enough so that you can get them off once the front wheels are off the ground and moving freely.

3. Jack up the front of your car and support on axle stands, followed by the rear.

4. Clean your callipers using brake cleaner – you can use a cloth to protect the painted section of the rotor if you are not intending to paint it later

5. Scrub the callipers using a wirebrush and repeat until they are clean and dust free.

6. Tape off the stuff you don’t want to get paint on with masking tape and newspaper.

7.  Apply 4 thin coats of high temperate paint from your local auto store, allowing it to dry between coats. I left it for about 20-30 mins between coats.

8. Remove the news paper and tape.

9. Using the mini paint roller, apply a layer of paint over the Subaru lettering. Do not push hard on the roller or your next job will be to start over with turps.

10. Allow to dry. Refit wheels. Drop off the stands.

Your done!

1. Get your car on a flat surface, apply the hand brake, and chock the rear wheels.

2. Loosen your wheel nuts half a turn or so, just enough so that you can get them off once the front wheels are off the ground and moving freely.

3. Jack up the front of your car and support on axle stands.

4. Remove the wheel nuts and wheel, then turn wheel so that you have easy access to the brake caliper. Notice the nasty cracks near the drilled vents.

5. Remove clip holding the pins in place.

6. Remove the guide pins holding the pads in place. Carefull with the spring plate (that big cross shaped piece of tin) it’ll have your eye out when it lets go.

7. Remove the pads with a pair of pliers and a little shake to loosen them between the piston and the rotor.

8. The shims should just fall off the pads. Clean and put aside for reinstall.

9. Take off the brake caliper by removing the two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper. You’ll probably need a bit of force here, a ring spanner hooked over the end of the socket wrench did the trick for me. (If you’re just replacing with stock size rotors you can get away only removing the top bolt and swiveling the caliper out of the way. There’s a clip holding the brake line that you can pop off to get some extra play.)

10. Tape or cable tie the caliper to the spring (this is so you don’t have to remove the brake line and get fluid all over the carpet in your shed ) The rotor should basically fall off at this stage or require a light tap on the inside to loosen off. (If the rotor fails to come off, there are two threaded holes at the front which can be used to push to rotor out using a bolt)

11. As the new rotors are a little larger than the old ones we had to grind the lip on the edge of the pad where it didn’t touch the previous rotor.

12. Clean your new rotors with some brake cleaner. Don’t get it on the painted surface of the rotor, it’ll eat it.

Repeat the process in reverse order to reinstall. Remember to push the pistons back before trying to jam your pads in. If you top up your fluid regularly you may have to loosen the bleed nipple and bleed off some fluid, otherwise your reservoir in the engine bay may overflow.

 

Although we didn’t undo the brake line from the caliper it’s still a good idea to bleed your brakes while the wheels are off to get any air out of the lines.

1. Start at the wheel furthest to the fluid reservoir (rear left) working towards the closest (RearLeft, RR, FL, FR)

2. Remove the rubber cover over the bleed valve. Grab a clear plastic hose and fit over the end of the valve with the other end going into a container below.

Steps 3 – 6 will require a hand from someone.

3. Using an 8mm spanner open the valve 1/4 turn.

4. Have your help press the brake pedal to the floor.

5. Close off the valve.

6. Release the brake pedal

Repeat steps 3 – 6 until you can see no air bubbles in the plastic tube. Remember to regulary check the reserviour under the bonnet and top up the fluid before you suck in air. If you’re changing fluids pump it through until you’ve used about 1/4 bottle or so.

Fit your wheels and bed in the new pads/rotors.